Cooking surf, fishing & goodbyes.

Sadly it is time to say goodbye to half of our little Malagasy family.  We are going to miss you Leonor, your physio ball and of course you Valeria & your forever smile. 

 

I feel you will leave our little training camp safe in the knowledge you have gained fitness, technique and the mentality to compete in your given WQS events but just as importnt you have created a bond that and support network that will always be behind you every contest you compete in.

 

Valeria you have improved your surfing performance in particular your vertical backhand attack and I know at just 17 you have a really fun surfing career ahead of you.  

 

Always keep it light and make it fun, that I know you will.  Enjoy every moment of this blessed life and give as much as you can.  Push on every turn keep experimenting with where you hit the lip, how long you hold the rail through turns, how much you explode off the top.  Your wave selection and positioning is like somebody older than you.  Your rythym and flow is natural.

 

Remember in Los Cabos if the waves slow and you need to cutback, add zest to your cutback by punctuating with a big whitewater vertical rebound.  It has been for us a real pleasure to meet you and for sure we gonna come to Mexico as soon as we can.  

Leonor, you have many more weeks of training in some great waves.  Your backside attack really impressed me, we started doing some sessions together earlier in the year and if I compare then to now you have really improved.  

 

Frontside, your carving cutbacks are looking more drawn out and smooth.  Your read in bigger faces has always been good but now you are pushing through each turn with more aggression, attacking critical areas of the wave and adding more variety into your arsenal.

 

Keep positive about your surfing, open your heart sometimes to advice from others, I am here to help always.  It is not a journey you have to do on your own.  Often we may disagree on things but this is always positive as it pushes each other to evaluate ourselves and others.

 

The most important thing is to enjoy those Indo comp waves, I hope it will be big & gnarly because I know you will paddle out and perform when others will be looking for excuses to surf the shoulder.

 

To both of you, from both of us....ciao darlings.