It is a very lonely feeling paddling out on your own at first light to double overhead surf.
For me surfing has always been about surfing with a few close friends or on your own. There is no feeling like being immersed in the vastness of nature. To sit out and sea and see the sun rise. Vulnerable is sometimes a good feeling, humbling, reminding me that indivdually we are nothing, fleeting and that the energy that flows around us is everything, constant and vast. The sun rising, the ocean pulsing the orange colours on the wave face and today the added raw energy in the swell. The incredible occurs everyday.
It was a very good feeling to turn around and see Rita join me 15 minutes later and hear her screaming down the line as she picked a nice medium sized runner that wrapped all the way to the inside.
Back out later waiting for the surf to glass off at 0900hrs.