The swell in the afternoon was a bit too much for the outer reefs to handle. Rita and I took a walk up beyond Befasy village to watch the local kids surfing a knee high pointbreak on skegless pieces of wood.
These kids were having so much fun. Reminding me that surfing is not always about competition, sport, lifestyle but something much simpler.
Surfing is about getting naked, submerging youself in nature and simplifying your life. You dont need a wetsuit, you dont need a surfboard. Just you, yourself and the ocean waves.
As we filmed the kids many thoughts came to me like should I be filming kids naked, should I go back to the surf lodge and let the kids use some of our foam boards.
I stopped and realised that all these thoughts were so restless so always needing to be more and stressing about a crazy parts of culture that we left far behind. Why could I just not accept the purity of the moment?
I thought that I was the teacher but these kids taught me so much more, to remember to just enjoy the simplest pleasure of the moment and forget the need to always grasp and strive for more.